STARTTIDER
2018

LEDSTATUS

Uppdaterad:
XX:XX 4/6 2018
welcome to SKULEBERGETSVIA FERRATA
EST. 1987

VIA FERRATA -

SKULEBERGET

via ferrata. three climbers on the wire with a view

Here, everyone who weights between 40-140kg has the chance to experience mountain climbing under the highest level of safety. No previous climbing experience is necessary, and only normal levels of fitness are required. Steel pegs and footholds have been fixed in place where natural footholds are lacking. Several hundred very strong steel anchor points have been drilled into Skuleberget's 250 metre high east face and 1300 metres of steel cable have then been pulled through these anchor points, which are divided into four graded routes of varying difficulty. 

The equipment you hire from us consists of a climbing helmet, a climbing harness and a Y-shaped lanyard with two karabiners suitable for use on a Via Ferrata. You climb the mountain by holding onto the steel cable. Please note, the equipment requires a minimum weight for each climber of 40 kg with a maximum weight of 140 kg. Both karabiners must remain clipped to the cable whilst climbing, except when passing past an anchor point, when you unclip and re-attach only one karabiner at a time. 

The routes are not designed for children so this places additional demands on accompanying adults. They should be completely confident with heights, and should look after children they accompany at all times, especially when moving karabiners. For a safe and secure climb, there is a maximum of one child under the age of 15 per accompanying adult.

vanliga frågor

FAQ

CAN I CLIMB IN ALL WEATHERS?

No. Rain, extreme heat and lightning risk are all reasons that may force us to temporarily close routes. Furthermore, after significant amounts of rain it can take days for the mountain to dry enough to climb safely. However, strong winds do not affect safety.

OPENING TIMES?

You can drop in during our opening times, no booking needed. Remember that you can start your climb until the "closing time". We stay open untill everyone is down.

DO I NEED TO BOOK?

No, not usually. You can just drop in during our opening times in the climbing season, but if you have a big group (10+) then it is advisable to book.

WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO BEFORE I CAN CLIMB?

First you must read through the safety rules. After you have understood the rules and how to climb, you have to sign a disclaimer. Then we will help you with the equipment and show you how it's used and after that you are ready to climb by yourself.

WHAT SHOULD I WEAR?

Durable, unrestrictive clothes and really grippy footwear. Boots are much better than trainers or running shoes. Trainers are too flexible and the soles are too hard which gives very poor friction. Climbing shoes are a real advantage on the Yellow and Red Routes, and especially on the Black Route.

HOW DIFFICULT IS IT?

Not easy to answer. It depends on your fear of heights and how you are able to handle it mentally. The fact that you are old, overweight or just not very fit, does not mean that you should not climb the White Route. The hardest part of the White Route is the approach to the climb and the descent down the path afterwards. When you are climbing by yourself, you are generally moving quite slowly, so physical fitness is not so important. The Yellow, Red and Black Routes require progressively more the ability to pull up your own body weight over longer sections and that you have a better head for heights.

CAN I ESCAPE FROM A CLIMB ONCE I HAVE STARTED?

It is possible to escape and turn back if you haven’t gone beyond the junction where the White and Red Routes divide. Most people who turn back do so at the Trial section which is at the start of the climb itself. The Yellow Route also has an early Trial section a little way into the climb. If it feels too steep or if you have difficulty using the footholds, it is best to turn back and choose the White Route instead. The Red Route is trickier because it becomes more and more difficult the higher up you climb. There is a risk that you could become stuck on the route unable either to continue or to turn back.

WHICH ROUTE SHOULD I CLIMB?

It is better to feel proud and happy after a thrilling experience than just to feel relieved that you ‘survived’. If you have never climbed before or if you are climbing with children (minimum weight 40 kg), then we would only recommend that you start with the White Route (graded Moderate). The Yellow Route (graded Difficult), is much steeper, smoother and more physically demanding. The Red Route (graded Very Difficult) is harder than the Yellow Route as it has more height exposure and is still more physically challenging. You must be over 160 cm in height (5 feet 3 inches) in order to reach the holds on the steepest sections. The Black Route (graded Extreme) is by far the most difficult. You must have been able to complete the Red Route without problems, and you should use climbing shoes.

WHEN IS IT BEST TO CLIMB?

In spring and autumn considering the temperatures. In summer it will be warmest and there will be most people climbing in the mornings. It will be much quieter after 3 o’clock in the afternoon and the routes will be in shade.

IS THERE AN AGE/WEIGHT LIMIT?

To climb by yourself, you must be at least 18 years old.
There is also a minimum weight requirement for each climber of 40 kg (6 stone 5 pound) with a maximum weight of 140 kg (22 stone). The equipment is not approved for smaller children. Those under the age of eighteen must be accompanied by an adult who is completely confident with heights, and who can look after minors they accompany at all times, especially when moving karabiners. For a safe and secure climb, there is a maximum of one child per accompanying adult.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO COMPLETE A ROUTE?

Normally it takes a couple of hours, plus the time that you spend at the top. During the holiday season you need to allow a couple of hours extra if there are many climbers already on the route.

WHAT RISKS ARE THERE?

That you overestimate your abilities, you panic because you chose a route that is too difficult, you are careless with the securing of the karabiners, falling whilst free climbing (not holding onto the cable), risk of slipping due to using footwear with poor friction, stonefall and dehydration. It is important to take water and something to eat so that you can keep your energy and spirits up when climbing.

VIA FERRATA -

Prices

ALL EQUIPMENT INCLUDED

LOW SEASON, SPRING AND AUTUMN

  • 395 SEK/Route 

    +190 SEK/Day ticket. Climb as much as you can, during the entire day.

    HIGH SEASON 24/6-18/8

    495 SEK/Route 

    +240 SEK/Day ticket. Climb as much as you can, during the entire day.

    FOR LOYAL CUSTOMERS

    • 1795 SEK/Season card.

    • Valid for 12 months from date of purchace.

    VIP-Climber

    • 8295 SEK/Lifetime Gold card

    USING YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT

    LOW SEASON, SPRING AND AUTUMN

    • 200 SEK/Route

      +65 SEK per item if any of your equipment is missing or not acceptable.
      +150 SEK/Day ticket. Climb as much as you can, during the entire day.
      +30 SEK/rented item for day ticket.

    HIGH SEASON 24/6-18/8

    • 300 SEK/Route

      +65 SEK per item if any of your equipment is missing or not acceptable.
      +150 SEK/Day ticket. Climb as much as you can, during the entire day.
      +30 SEK/rented item for day ticket.

    FOR LOYAL CUSTOMERS

    • 300 SEK/Route

      Valid for 12 months from date of purchace.
      +265 kr per item if any of your equipment is missing or not acceptable.

      EXTRA

      +40 SEK/pair climbing gloves

      +100 SEK/day climbing shoes

      +50 SEK/day hiking poles

        THE WHITE 
        ROUTE

        MODERATELY DIFFICULT
        HIGHEST GRADE OF DIFFICULTY: B

        A Skule mountain classic and the obvious choice for those who have never tried a Via Ferrata or any other form of climbing before. The White Route follows a traditional climbing path with grades between 2 and 3 and seeks the simplest, most natural route up Skule mountain’s east face. The outing can be described as varied, with an interesting ‘spice mix’ of small climbing problems broken up by roomy ledges and shelves which provide excellent viewpoints/refreshment points. The climbing rarely gives a feeling of exposure, but still gives the sensation of being on a mountain face. The White Route needs no more than normal balance and flexibility together with a reasonable ability to cope with heights. There is a Trial section at the beginning which gives a good understanding of what is to follow.

        THE YELLOW 
        ROUTE

        DIFFICULT
        HIGHEST GRADE OF DIFFICULTY: C

        An exposed, prolonged and slightly technical Via Ferrata, which demands balance , some finesse and good footwork in order to get the most from it (rather than simply grinding your way up it). Those who simply rely on raw strength are going to have problems, likewise those who have a fear of heights. The Yellow Route is significantly harder and more exposed than the White Route, but somewhat easier than the Red. Unlike the Red Route the main difficulties come in unexposed positions, for example, immediately above a large ledge.

        THE RED 
        ROUTE

        VERY DIFFICULT
        HIGHEST GRADE OF DIFFICULTY: C/D

        An exciting route which has somewhat the feel of an ’aerial circus’ about it.  The climbing is steeper, harder and more exposed than the Yellow Route. After the initial slabs, the traverse out under the overhangs puts air under your heels. The crux of the route comes with the moves up through the overhangs, which are both airy and ruthlessly testing for those that have any fear of heights, and which especially mark this out as one of the most technically difficult sections. Even the following section is steep, if not quite so exposed. Unlike the Yellow Route, this route requires that you must be at least 160 cm in height (5 feet 3 inches) to have any chance of reaching the holds in the steepest sections.

        THE BLACK 
        ROUTE

        EXTREME
        HIGHEST GRADE OF DIFFICULTY: E

        Like a serpent in paradise there it lies... the Black Route. In any event, this can be considered as Skule mountain’s most difficult Via Ferrata – by far. Not to be underestimated by the unwary. Nor to be caught out if the weather changes. The vertical line of the route means that it is tiring, especially for the arms. This applies especially to the 18 metre high slightly overhanging wall immediately above the starting point. Once you are past this, the crux is now behind you, but the difficulties are far from over. If it rains the conditions can become tricky.  Retreating back down the aforementioned wall is not really an option. The Black Route is only recommended for those who have completed the Red Route without problems, or have experience of similarly graded climbs. For those that are ’ready’ for the Black Route, superb quality rock faces and an extraordinary Via Ferrata experience await. Climbers who have completed the Black Route have also shown that they have the necessary technical climbing skills to complete many of the most difficult Via Ferratas in the Alps.

        VIA FERRATA -

        PRESENTKORT

        * Obligatoriska fält
        (Presentkortet är giltigt i 5 år)

        GDPR

        Tack för din beställning. Vi skickar presentkort och faktura så snart vi kan.
        OBS: Kom ihåg att kolla skräpposten.
        * Något blev tokigt, kolla så att du har fyllt i korrekta uppgifter

        Hur kom via ferrata till Sverige och, faktiskt, Norden? -

        the story

            • Det korta svaret är att det kom hit via min bror Gunnar och mig med Vita leden på Skuleberget som första exempel. Året var 1987. Det var inget vi kom på ”bara så där”. Sommaren innan hade vi gjort en semesterresa ner till Alperna, närmare bestämt Dolomiterna, med våra respektive flickvänner. Världsarvet Dolomiterna är något av det häftigaste och mest originella man kan få uppleva vad gäller berglandskap. Ett självklart mål för två bergfantaster som Gunnar och mig, men vi hoppades så klart att det även skulle tilltala våra kanske inte fullt lika ”bergtagna” flickvänner. Bäst att krydda resan med något extra, tänkte vi. Vi hade läst om via ferrata. Det skulle vara roligt att prova på. En bra kompromiss mellan vandring och klättring, som borde kunna passa oss alla.

              climber via ferrata yellow clothes

              Bergöglorna är av högsta stålkvalitet. 20 och 25 mm grova och av varierande längd.

            • Våra förväntningar både infriades och överträffades. Via Ferrata var mer än att bara vandra på smala bergshyllor med höga stup nedanför. Vi rörde oss i höga bergväggar och upplevde naturscenarier som, utan vajersäkring, inte skulle ha varit tillgängliga utan avancerad klättring. Vi fascinerades av enkelheten och tryggheten i systemet. Detta var något som alla med normal rörelseförmåga skulle kunna uppleva. På vägen hem till Sverige kände vi oss lite som väckelsepredikanter och pratade mycket om hur man skulle kunna tillgängliggöra den här upplevelsen för fler människor. Vi kanske skulle samla ihop ett kompisgäng och åka till Dolomiterna!? Skulle vi rentav ordna guidade resor till Dolomiterna!?

              Kilen gör att bergöglans skaft expanderar när den slås mot botten på hålet.

              Då kom Gunnar
              och jag på det. Hur är det med den där leden på Skuleberget, som vi klättrat ett antal gånger genom åren. Hur många gånger hade vi inte tänkt:
              Att klättra uppför Skulebergets östvägg är något som fler borde få uppleva! Det är ju så häftigt!

              Det som vägde tungt i den andra vågskålen var naturligtvis att det inte var helt ofarligt. Vi kunde inte öppna dörren till Skuleväggen för en större publik på det sättet. Nu hade vi äntligen hittat nyckeln till den dörren: Via Ferrata!

                red pants climber via ferrata skuleberget

                Avståndet mellan bergöglorna varierar beroende på utsatthet . 2 - 6 meter.

                • Men: I Alperna är Via Ferrata kultur med anor ända sedan 1843 då den första Via Ferratan byggdes upp på toppen av Hohe Dachstein. Likaväl som ”Medel-Svensson” antagligen hittar ett fiskespö i sin friluftsgarderob hittar ”Medel-Fischer”ett klätterrep och en isyxa i sin, kan man tänka sig. Via Ferrata-konceptet i svensk tappning måste alltså vara något mer än bara själva leden. Man kan inte vänta sig att folk i Sverige, av sig själva, ska förstå hur man säkrar sig på en Via Ferrata och, ännu mindre, ha rätt utrustning för det. Lösningen måste vara att Via Ferrata-utrustningen fanns att hyra och att personal fanns tillhands för information och instruktion. Visionen var att, i princip, vem som helst, kanske efter en kopp kaffe på det intilliggande caféet, enhalvtimme senare, på egen hand, skulle kunna vara på väg mot sitt livs första bergäventyr! Nästa steg blev att åka till Skuleberget och klättra vår led s.a.s. med Via Ferrata-glasögon. Det var särskilt viktigt att få med oss våra flickvänner, som inte tidigare hade klättrat uppför Skuleväggen. De fick representera ”vanliga” människor. Deras omdöme skulle bli viktigt för om vi skulle gå vidare med vår idé eller ej. Vi genomförde klättringen och fick det stöd vi behövde. ”Tänk att få röra sig i den här miljön med en trygg vajer som säkring. Vilken känsla”. En passage, som vi valde att döpa till ”Helenas hell”, antyder kanske att inte alla var tillfreds hela tiden, men med stöd av en vajer skulle det nog gå bra. 

                      • history of via ferrata

                        Med ett elaggregat på stupkanten och 135 meter kabel nådde vi nästan till bergets fot.

                        Nu återstod två huvudfrågor: 1. Hur bygger man en Via Ferrata? Det måste vi ta reda på. 2. Vi måste presentera vårt projekt och få tillstånd och stöd för det. Efter en, bitvis, intensiv höst och vinter föll brickorna på plats och i mitten av juni 1987 var vi redo att sätta i gång. Eftersom vi bestämt oss för en arbetsmetod där vi jobbade hängande i rep, började vi från toppen och jobbade oss under två veckor neråt längs det som blev Vita leden. Sista dagen gjorde vi ett litet avsteg från den ursprungliga klätterleden. Vi bestämde att det behövdes en mera distinkt start. En prövosten. Bättre att folk vände här än hamnade i problem högre upp, tänkte vi. Så var vi då klara. Sveriges och Nordens första Via Ferrata hade sett dagens ljus. Det hade varit ett ganska ansträngande ”grovjobb”, men framför allt var det ändå ett estetiskt jobb. En kreativ process som kanske liknar det en konstnär kan få uppleva. Är Vita leden alltså ett konstverk? Nej, men kanske kan man säga att vi med Vita leden tillhandahöll staffli och penslar för besökarna att måla sina egna upplevelser. För några är utsikten som sakta växer fram allteftersom man vinner höjd, det väsentliga. För andra dominerar känslan av att befinna sig i en stor bergvägg. För ytterligare andra är själva klätterupplevelsen det viktiga. Inte minst: För en del handlar det om en inre resa. Om att övervinna sin egen rädsla och, faktiskt, växa som människor. Ungefär så. 
                        /Arne Nordin

                      arne nordin via ferrata
                      gunnar via ferrata

                      VIA FERRATA -

                      FIND US

                      We are just 2 kilometres north of Docksta. Take the turning to the naturum Höga Kusten.

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                      VIA FERRATA -

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                      Uppdaterad:
                      XX:XX 4/6 2018


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